This year, the sleeve has garnered fashion limelight. From large flounces to exquisite pleats, 2017 has truly been the ‘year of the sleeve’.
However, the thought of finding a new dress sewing pattern that features the latest sleeve trend may be a little daunting if not time-consuming, plus you may already have your go-to dress pattern that fits and suits you perfectly. That’s why we’ve created a sewing tutorial that will show you how to adapt your Day Dress sleeve pattern.
With this tutorial, you’ll learn how to lengthen a sleeve and add two separate finishing details. You can choose to add a gathered cuff (with two different cuff finishes) or finish your sleeve with a charming tie detail.
By using this tutorial, you’ll still have your favourite Day Dress pattern but with an effortless new twist!
Lengthening the sleeve
What you will need:
* a ruler
* a right angle ruler
* pencil / pens
* the Day Dress pattern
The sleeve we are using is number 2 (UK 10)
Trace your sleeve, notches and grainline in your size, ensuring that it is as accurate as possible.
Measure each side of the side of the sleeve and, if not the same, mark the side that needs lengthening to be the same as the other side and redraw the line.
Draw a straight line across the width of the sleeve, matching up the two side seam lines. Then, measure across this line (from sleeve edges) and find the halfway mark.
Draw a straight line from the top notch through your middle line.
At the top of the sleeve, draw the seam allowance of 1.5cm and then measure down the length of the sleeve and mark 40cm. This measurement includes a 2cm hem allowance.
Using your right angle ruler or anything that can help you make sure this line is straight, draw a straight line across the width of the sleeve at the 40cm mark.
Draw your seam allowance on each side of the sleeve side seam – 1.5cm.
We are now going to measure our new sleeve width at the hem. Using the following measurements for your size (see table below), divide this measurement in half and mark the measurement each side of the middle line. For size 2 the measurement, without seams, is 30cm so we have measured 15cm each side of the middle line.
Size 1 (UK 8) = 29cm
Size 2 (UK 10) = 30cm
Size 3 (UK 12) = 31cm
Size 4 (UK 14) = 32cm
Size 5 (UK 16) = 33cm
Size 6 (UK 18) = 34cm
You can now draw your line from this mark to the side seam – but don’t include the seam allowance at the side seam of the sleeve.
Then, measure 1.5cm at your new sleeve hem and draw a line meeting up with the top of the sleeve side seam, now including the seam allowance.
Your new finished sleeve, the hem allowance of 2cm is included.
Measure each side of the sleeve side and, if they are not the same, redraw the hem line.
Your new longer sleeve.
We suggest that you cut this sleeve out of scrap fabric and make it up, fitting it on your arm to ensure that the cuff size is wide enough.
Next up, we are going to use this longer sleeve to create two finishes.
Click on the image below to make a gathered cuff with three different finishes or the gorgeous tie sleeve: