The perfect fit trousers – at last!
A slim shaped trouser – between skinny/cigarette shape – with easy to insert side pockets and an optional side slit at the hem.
A narrow waistband with an invisible zip at the back makes the front of these trousers very flattering.
This pattern works well in most light weight to medium weight fabrics. For a Spring/Summer dress use a thin cotton and for Autumn/Winter a medium weight fabric is ideal.
You could use a slight stretch fabric on these trousers.
View A – Fabric, thread, hand needle, 10cm narrow satin ribbon, button (1-2cm)
View B – Fabric, thread, 20cm/8″ invisible zipper (ensure your sewing machine has a zipper foot)
- Pattern printed on high quality white pattern paper
- Beautiful step by step instruction booklet
- Guide on taking your measurements
- Fabric and Sewing basics help card
- Sewing Terms Demystified card
- Checklist card to ensure you have covered everything before starting your project
- Information on The Avid Seamstress
Before you start – do you need to shorten or lengthen the trouser length? Have a look here on how to do this!
Overlock / zigzag the raw edges.
BACK TROUSER DARTS
What are darts?
A “dart” is used to shape fabric, often where there is small amount of excess fabric or when a more tailored look is required. A dart is usually created to shape the bust, waist, hip or elbow curve.
There are two types of darts;
“triangle shape” which is wide at the top and pointed at the end
“shaped” dart which starts with a point, widening in the middle and ending with a point (often found on dress patterns).
A badly sewn dart will result in the fabric puckering on the right side. A perfect dart will be straight and smooth and will be barely visible from the right side.
1. On your two back pieces and on the wrong side, ensure that you have marked your dart notches and dot.
1.1. The dart we are creating is the triangle shape. We’ve drawn the shape to illustrate.
1.2. Pinch the top two notches so that they meet and pin. Place a pin on the dot and you will see that the fabric forms a straight line from the dot up to the fold between the top notches.
1.3. You know what? There are no “RULES” – if it helps you to create the perfect dart then why not draw the line from the top notch to the dot. The line should extend off the fabric at the dot. The line of sewing needs to be a perfect straight line from notch to dot otherwise the dart will pucker. Stitch in place.
1.4. View from right side (sorry almost impossible to see with this print!).
Tip. It’s important to focus on using precise seam allowances throughout these instructions, otherwise the waistband won’t fit. Use your sewing machine seam allowance guide.
2. Open out your two front A pieces, right sides facing you.
3. Place your pocket bag C right side onto A, matching up the pocket curve notch. Sew in place using a 1cm seam. Snip into the curved edge and turn to the right side.
4. Iron flat. Repeat on the other pocket.
5. On the wrong side, fold the pocket bag on the fold line and line up the notches at the top of the waist and the side of the trousers. Stitch the curved edge of the pocket bag, ensuring you are only sewing the pocket bag and not the trousers! Iron your pocket bag.
6. To ensure the pocket bag stays in place – create a row of stitches, using a 5mm seam allowance, along the edge of the waistline and the side seam – through all of the layers. You only need to sew where the pocket bag meets the waistline and side seam.
FRONT AND BACK CROTCH
7. Place your two front pieces right sides together and line up your crotch curve and notch. Stitch in place using a 1.5cm seam allowance. Clip into the curve and iron open the seam.
This seam at the waistline is your Centre Front (we will refer to this “CF” when putting in the waistband).
SIDE SEAMS / SIDE SLIT
Make sure you have marked the notch on each side of the bottom of your trousers. If you do not wish to have the side slit then ignore number 9 and on number 10 continue to sew down to the hem – ensuring you are sewing in a straight line to the bottom hem.
9. Place the trouser legs RIGHT SIDE facing you. At the bottom edge fold the side slit at the notch as shown – 3.5cm. Sew in place (you are sewing along the width of the hemline). Essentially this creates the corner piece of your trousers so needs to be accurate- so it’s 3.5cm turned in from the side and 3.5cm from the hem. Use your measuring tape to ensure the line is accurate. I would also reinforce this section to ensure it is strong so create a double row of stitches.
This image shows the back and front sides next to each other. Ensure that they are matching up the same. When you take your time and really focus on these elements of sewing this is what takes your sewing to the next level.
10. Place your trousers pieces A & B right sides together and pin the side seams, ensuring that the top and bottom edges are neat and flush.
Tip. It may seem a bit tricky while you are pinning – focus on matching up your notches. Sew the side seam from the top until you reach the dot.
Tip: Place your first pin at the bottom hem, your next pin at the very top and then pin the notches. Then work your way between the pins and the fabric should straighten out (as long as you cut them out accurately).
Sew the side seam from the top until you reach the notch. Can you see how your line of sewing needs to stay on a straight line so that you are sewing 3.5cm from the edge (look where our ruler is), once you reach the lower part of the trousers? We’ve drawn the line to illustrate (you can too if it makes it easier!).
Tip: When you are sewing over more than two layers of fabric we suggest that you create an additional line or even two of stitches. This will reinforce the section and keep the pieces together firmly. We’ve done this at the pocket section:
11. Turn the trousers to the wrong side and push the sewn edge from 9. to the right side create your side slit edge. Iron in place. Both sides should match and look lovely!
12. At the inner leg, match up the crotch seams. Sew from the hem up to the crotch on each side ensuring all the edges are flush and the crotch seam allowances are open. On the bottom edge, keep the hem open and flat.
13. You can now turn up this side of the hem and iron in place. Hand stitch or machine stitch your hem.
14. Fold your waistband wrong sides together and iron to create a crease mark along the fold. Open out the waistband so that it is flat.
15. Turn your trousers to the right side and match the waistband CF and the CF of the trousers – right sides together.
16. Working your way from CF around to the CB on each side, line up your waistband notches to your trouser side seams and CB edges. Pin in place. Ensure the fabric edges of the trousers and the waistband are flush and the seams are open. The waistband fits perfectly so that your time here.
17. Sew the waistband/trouser edge.
Tip. It is very important that you keep to the 1.5cm seam allowance, especially at the CB sides.
Once complete check that your CB pieces are the same. If one side is higher now is the time to fix it!
18. Iron your seam allowance away from the waistband.
Zip length 22cm
An invisible zip is completely different from a standard zip – the way it looks is different and the way you insert it into the garment is different. You always work on the right side of the fabric when putting in an invisible zip. The ‘teeth’ of the zip are on the inside of the zip whereas the ‘teeth’ of a regular zip are on the outside.
19. Prepare the zipper. Unzip the zipper and you will notice that the zip “rolls” to the side. Take your iron and, on a warm but not hot setting, iron the zip so that each rolled side lies very flat.
20. This image is to illustrate how we are going to place the zip. It is placed in the first part of the waistband. The second folded part of the waistband is at the top.
a) The zip extends into the first half of the waistband.
b) We want the “top stop” of the zip close to the top of the first half of the waistband – approx. 3mm
c) The rest of the top of the zip needs to extend past the first half of the waistband, but isn’t sewn.
d) The stitches show you where you start sewing – next to the “top stop”.
21. Place your zip according to 20. The edge of the zip should lie against the edge of the fabric. Using your zipper presser foot and starting next to the “top stop”, create a
row of stitches next to the zipper teeth. Don’t sew too close to the teeth – just a few mm next to it. Sew until you reach the notch.
22. Once sewn flip your sewn zip side so that the unsewn zip is now on the right. Can you see how we have turned the top of the zip so that it sits with the edge of the zip against the edge of the fabric? It should mirror the other side. Make sure that your zip starts in the exact same place as the other side and then pin down the edge, twisting the zip to sit “correctly”.
23. Sew in place, this time from the notch upwards. Don’t forget to stop at the “top stop”.
24. On completion, your trouser edge and waistband edges should match up like this.
25. On the inner trouser and on the wrong side move to the area that is unsewn between the zip and the crotch stitches.
Starting just above and to the left of the zip stitches, sew down to the crotch stitches, completing this section.
26.1.The top part of the zip that was not sewn now needs to be moved out of the way. Turn down the top of the zip and machine or hand stitch in place.
26.2. Fold the waistband along the crease over to the wrong side and place the edge over the zip. Ensure the edges are aligned. Machine stitch in place (not too close to the zip).
26.3.Push this sewn piece to the right side.
26.4.View from the wrong side of the trousers:
Repeat on the other side
26.5.Your trouser top should match up evenly on both sides.
COMPLETING THE WAISTBAND
27. Fold your waistband along the crease so that the unsewn waistband edge is inside the trousers. On the right side and starting from the CB we are going to sew the waistband in place.
28. Create a row of stiches in the seamline where the waistband meets the trousers. The stitches will be hidden here.
Tip. Sew slowly and carefully here, keep checking underneath to make sure that the waistband is flat and your seams are facing to the left.
29. The stitches will be visible on the inside of the trousers along the waistband edge:
To complete your trousers just give them a lovely iron and turn to the right side.
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