The Raglan Adult Dress / Top – Info & Tutorial

_d817346-editBuy this pattern link

THE RAGLAN ADULT DRESS / TOP

The Raglan is a simple, modern dress / top cut in an A-line silhouette with a facing and invisible zip at the back neck. With optional inner / outer pockets and short / long sleeves, this pattern is as versatile as you are. An elegant and playful fit, the Raglan beautifully sways with every step.


SUGGESTED FABRICS
Lightweight to medium weight fabrics – wovens, chambray, crepes, silk, viscose & cottons.

SUPPLIES NEEDED
Top – Fabric, thread, 35cm/14in invisible zipper.
Dress – Fabric, thread 55cm/22in invisible zipper.

WHAT’S INCLUDED

  • Pattern printed on high quality white pattern paper
  • Beautiful step by step instruction booklet
  • Guide on taking your measurements
  • Fabric and Sewing basics help card
  • Sewing Terms Demystified card
  • Checklist card to ensure you have covered everything before starting your project
  • Information on The Avid Seamstress

TUTORIAL

Before you start –  Overlock / zigzag the raw edges of your fabric pieces.

STAYSTITCHING THE NECKLINE

1. Open out B so that you have each piece separately. Staystitch the neckline on the two pieces of B and the front neckline of A (the image below is showing you the front and one side of the back piece done).

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress


BUST DARTS

2. Create your bust darts:

How to create a beautiful dart:
– Mark the ends of your dart with pins and the tip of the dart with a marker
– Fold the fabric so that the two pins meet each other and repin
– Using a pin or your fingers find the tip of the dart and your fabric should create a straight folded line.
– Flip the fabric so that the bodice is now right sides together
– Draw a line from the pins to the dot – the line should extend off the fabric at the dot. The line of sewing needs to be a perfect straight line from notch to dot
– Sew from the edge of the fabric to the dot and then press your dart downwards towards the hem

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid SeamstressRaglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress


INNER POCKETS

 

* Ignore step 3 & 4 if you are not putting in inner pockets or if you are making the TOP version

 

3. Place the front dress A right side facing you. Place your inner pocket pieces F right sides together onto A at each side seam, matching up the pocket notches. Sew the pocket to the dress, using a 1cm seam allowance. Use a 1.5cm seam allowance for the rest of this pattern, unless otherwise indicated.

4. On the right side of the fabric, iron the pocket piece and seam allowance flat to the side. Repeat step 3 & 4 on the back dress pieces.


INVISIBLE ZIP

 

An invisible zip is completely different from a standard zip – the way it looks is different and the way you insert it into the garment is different. You always work on the right side of

the fabric when putting in an invisible zip. The “teeth” of the zip are on the inside of the zip, whereas the “teeth” of a regular zip are on the outside.

Note. You can use your standard zipper foot to insert an invisible zip. If you have a invisible zipper foot there are only some slight variations which will be noted in the next steps.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

VIEW A – Dress zip length 55cm

VIEW B – Top zip length 35cm

Prepare the zipper – Unzip the zipper and you will notice that the zip “rolls” to the side. Take your iron and, on a warm but not hot setting, iron the zip so that each side lies very flat.

5. Place the left side of B right side facing you. Place the zip right side facing down onto B and pin. The unpinned side of the zip will be on the left. Ensure that the top of the zip is flush with the top of the CB. The edge of the zip should lie against the edge of the fabric.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid SeamstressRaglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

6. Starting at the top, sew the zip to the dress. The stitches should be next to the zipper teeth but not too close. Sew until you reach the bottom of the zip. Don’t forget to reverse stitch!
If you are using an invisible zipper pressure foot the pressure foot will determine where the stitches are as the zipper teeth run through the zipper foot.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

This is how you would start sewing with a standard zipper foot:

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

This is how you would start sewing with an invisible zipper foot:

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

When you reach the bottom of the zipper with an invisible zipper foot, it will look like this:

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

7. Place the other back piece B right sides together onto the piece you have just sewn. Pick up the unsewn zip side and place along the edge of the unsewn B piece – right side of the zip to right side of the fabric. Pin in place, ensuring you are only pinning the zip and the edge of B. Ensure that the top of the zip is flush with the top of the dress and the bottom of the zip ends at the same place as the other sewn side.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

8. Starting from the bottom of the zip, sew this side of the zip.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

9. Once complete, zip up your zip and check that the zip starts at the same point at the top neck.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

10. On the wrong side of the fabric, pin the remainder of the CB sides of B – matching up the bottom hem. If using an invisible zipper pressure foot change this foot to your standard zipper foot for the next step.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

11. Push the loose unsewn zip to the right hand side and guide your fabric so that you can sew a row of stitches just above and to the left of the sewn zipper stitches. Don’t forget to reverse stitch.

Tip.The trick is to start as close as possible to the zip stitches you created in the previous step. Just after the first few stitches, guide the edge of the fabric so that you are then sewing on a 1.5cm seam allowance.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress


12. Check this piece has been sewn accurately and then iron open your seam allowance.


SLEEVE DART

13. Place your sleeve piece C wrong sides facing you. Ensure that you have marked the dot from the pattern piece onto the sleeve (on the wrong side of the fabric).

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

14. Fold the sleeve right sides together, lining up the dot on the fold and the top at the neckline.

15. Draw a line (1cm seam allowance) from the top of the dart to the dot. This will help you to sew it beautifully. Once sewn, you can snip down the fold of the fabric on the inside of the dart. Ensure you don’t snip too far down!

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid SeamstressRaglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

16. When you open out the sleeve on the right side the top of the arm curve should be neat.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

FRONT SLEEVE

Important – the sleeve has a 1cm seam allowance

17. It is very important that your sleeve notches are marked on your fabric as it is easy to confuse the front and back sides of the sleeve. The back of the sleeve has two notches and one notch that match up to the dress back piece.

img_2172

18. Place A right side facing you. Find the sleeve piece that, when you place it right side onto A, has the one notch matching up to the one notch on A. We are only working on the front of the dress now so need the sleeve FRONT to correspond to the dress.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

19. Pin the side seam edges.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

20. Move up and pin the notches together.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

Tip. Take your time with these next steps. These pieces don’t look like they fit but they do.

 

21. At the top of the sleeve, align your pieces as shown.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

Tip. Can you see how the sleeve is placed on the top of A? The pieces aren’t flush at the top – this is because of the shape of the neckline. Once sewn and opened out to the right side the curve will be perfect.

22. Pin the rest of the sleeve, making sure the pieces stay flush against each other along the edge. Once pinned, turn over to the other side and check that no fabric has got mistakenly caught.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

23. Sew these two pieces together, slowly and carefully. Remove the pins as you reach them. Remember to only use a 1cm seam allowance which will help you get around this curvy edge!

Open out the piece and have a look at the neckline. Can you see how beautiful the neckline edge is? This is why step 21 is so important.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

24. Still working with the front dress piece, place your other FRONT sleeve right sides together onto the dress front and repeat the steps to sew this FRONT sleeve to the dress FRONT.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid SeamstressRaglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

BACK SLEEVE

25. Lay your pieces as shown – right sides facing you. Take B and place onto A – right sides together. Pull the sleeve sections of B across to meet the back sleeve sections of C. Match up the sleeve pieces on each side – following the same method as you did with the front sleeve. Sew in place.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid SeamstressRaglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

Tip – before you sew the next section, iron the seam allowance of your sleeve and then unfold. Once you sew the sleeve seams together you will already have your guide for when you sew the hem!

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress


SIDE SEAMS

 

26. Your sleeve and side seam will be sewn in one continuous piece. Fold your dress right sides together so that your back and front dress meet. Then, working on one side, match up

the start of the sleeve, the underarm points (keep seam allowances open), the pocket and then bottom of the dress, ensuring that the hem is even. Pin in place.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

27. At the pocket, draw the pivot line where you will turn to sew around the pocket, so that you are always using a 1.5 seam allowance.

28. Sew in place, using a 1.5cm seam allowance. Note that when sewing from arm to underarm, pivot needle to continue to sew the side seam. Once sewn, snip into seam allowance of
underarm.

NECK FACING

 

29. Right sides together and using a 1cm seam allowance, stitch your facing pieces together.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

30. Turn your dress to the right side and place the facing right side onto the dress. Work your way around the neckline matching up the edges and the CB. Take your time to fit these pieces

together.

Tip. Place your pins pointing downwards instead of across to help you shape the neckline.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

 

31. Starting at the back, sew the facing to the back piece using a 1cm seam allowance. As this is a curved piece you will need to keep straightening out the edge of the fabric so that it is flush against the 1cm guide on your sewing machine. Sew slowly and carefully and ensure that seam allowances stay open and no fabric is getting caught underneath mistakenly. When you get to the other side of the back piece, ensure that you stop sewing exactly on a 1cm seam allowance to ensure your two back pieces match up.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid SeamstressRaglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

32. Once you’re happy with this piece, snip into the curve of the neckline seam allowance.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress


UNDERSTITCHING THE NECKLINE & COMPLETING THE FACING

33. With the garment turned to the right side and starting at the right hand side of the back piece, spread the facing to the right and the garment to the left. The seam allowance should lie
underneath the facing piece. Create a row of stitches on the facing piece 3-5mm from the edge, catching the seam allowance underneath. Continue all the way around the neckline and

then press gently with an iron.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

34. At the CB turn in your seam allowance and pin. Hand stitch the facing to the zip, making sure no stitches are visible from the right side

35. Your completed neckline piece. On the inside, using hand stitching, stitch your facing piece to the shoulder seam to help the facing piece stay inside the garment.


COMPLETING THE SLEEVES AND HEM

 

36. Fold the sleeve hemline at the notches (2.5cm) and sew in place or fold where you made the ironed hem mark earlier. You will need to use your free arm sewing on your sewing machine or hand stitch the hem.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

37. On the bottom edge of the dress/top turn up the hem 2.5cm and pin in place, ensuring the seam allowances are open at the side seams. Sew in place.

Raglan Adult instructions by The Avid Seamstress

Tip. Put the dress over your ironing board and use your measuring tape to ensure the hem is consistent. Iron the seam flat as you work your way around the dress.

Tip. If your fabric is thick it may be difficult to turn up the hem 2.5cm. In this case, just use a smaller hem allowance.


OUTER POCKETS

38. On your pocket piece make tiny snips into the curve of the pocket – only 5mm. This will help you to shape your pocket.
39. On the wrong side, fold the top of your pocket 3cm and iron in place. Create a row of stitches across the pocket width.
40. Along the edges of the pocket, iron in the seam allowance 1.5cm, shaping the curve as you iron.

41. Fold the pocket in half and place a pin at the top and bottom which is now marking the middle of the pocket. This will help us to line it up evenly across the side seam of the dress.

img_2207
42. On the inside of the dress, locate the two notches on the side seam. The middle of these two notches is the guide for where you place the top of the outer pocket. Use a pin through to the right side to show you where to place the top of the outer pocket.
43. Take your dress to an ironing board and pull the dress on (right sides up) so that the side seam of the dress is flat on the ironing board.

44. Using the pin from step 42 as a guide, place your pocket on to the dress. Line up the two pins that marked the centre of the pocket so that they line up with the side seam.

img_2208

45. Place pins every 2cm around the pocket to keep it firmly in place for when you sew the pocket. Alternatively, baste your pocket on to your dress before sewing the pocket to the dress.

img_2205

46. Starting at the right side of the pocket, topstitch your pocket on. Stitch closely to the edge of the pocket. Sew slowly and carefully. Repeat on the other pocket.
47. Turn your garment inside out and iron completely. Turn back to the right side and you’re finished!

Love how your garment turned out? Share it with us! See the next page for all the ways you can share your look, tips and advice with our community of seamstresses.

_d817337

Don’t forget to enter our monthly Avid Seamstress of the month, a place for you to share your creation and be in line to win your next pattern free – all the details here – The Avid Seamstress of the Month

 

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s