This tutorial will demonstrate how to lower the armhole which will add ease across the front & back and increase the sleeve head width.
Alteration achieved – lower the armhole 1cm.
PATTERN PIECES NEEDED – A Front / B Back / C Sleeve
Place a piece of paper underneath the FRONT A so that you have enough paper underneath the armhole and side seam.
At the armhole, measure 1cm down from the side seam and mark.
Using the images below as guides:
- At the shoulder seam, draw the 1cm seam allowance across the shoulder.
At the front neck curve, measure 1cm and mark a dot (our red cross). Where the two lines interconnect this is the shoulder neck point SNP.
Draw a 14cm vertical line from the SNP parallel to the CF edge.
2. At the sleeve edge and on this line, bring out the sleeve 0.6cm
OPTION 1 (shown in drawing) – if you happy where your shoulder sits – draw a smooth line from the shoulder edge to the new measurement at the armskye.
OPTION 2 (not shown in drawing) – if you have a wider cross shoulder and would like some extension on the shoulder – extend the shoulder seam out 0.6cm draw the line from the shoulder to the new measurement at the armskye.
3. Continue to new armskye shape through to the new lowered armhole. This should resemble an “egg” shape.
BACK BODICE B – Repeat on the back bodice.
Place a piece of pattern paper underneath the full sleeve pattern piece.
On the front sleeve side (this is the left side of the pattern piece), draw a line 1.5cm down from the notch. Extend out 0.6cm.
Draw the new front side sleeve shape from the top of the sleeve, connecting through the 0.6cm measurement and to nothing at the sleeve seam.
At the sleeve seam on the front side, extend out 0.6cm and redraw the sleeve seam down to nothing at the hem.
Repeat on the back sleeve.
NOTE – the sleeve is possibly going to need more easing into the sleeve hem. Any extra ease gained needs to be eased into armhole.
Should you have any questions or need additional support, please don’t hesitate to contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org
Should you just wish to increase the ease in the bicep, see our tutorial here.