The Jumpset – Lengthening The Bodice

Before you begin making any alterations to the pattern, select the Jumpset size you’ll be making. The pattern Pieces which will need altering are A Top Front, C Back and D Front Neck Facing. We suggest tracing the pieces so that you still have the master copy.

The measurement you’ll need to lengthen the bodice of the Jumpset is the Centre Back Length. Measure from the Shoulder Neck Point to Waist as shown on the mannequin.

Compare your personal Centre Back Length Measurement to that on the size chart for your selected size. The difference in these two numbers is the amount you need to add to the bodice to lengthen the bodice. In our example we are lengthening by 3cm.

Follow these steps to lengthen the bodice:

TOP FRONT A

Begin by measuring the Top Front (A) pattern piece along the waist seam (bottom edge) from the side seam to the Centre Front. Do not include the wrap. Keep a note of this measurement you’ll need it later on.

Tape a piece of paper underneath the Top Front (A) . Make sure you have enough space below the pattern piece to extend the pattern by the required amount.

From the side seam to the front wrap edge add the measurement accurately, using a measuring tape or ruler. At the CF draw the CF line through the additional paper.

Halfway on the upper yoke edge on the Top Front (A), draw a straight line to the waist edge, using the Grainline or CF line to ensure the line is parallel. Cut up the line from the waist edge; stopping 1cm from the yoke edge to create a hinge.

Using the side seam pattern piece side, pivot the piece towards the centre front so that the pieces overlap. Place a weight to hold the pattern pieces in place. Using a measuring tape, measure the waist edge from the side seam to the Centre Front line only, ignoring the wrap. The lower edge needs to measure exactly the same as the original waist measurement. Manoeuvre the overlap until the lower edge measures the same as the original waist measurement.

Important – only measure from the side seam to the Centre Front line only, ignoring the wrap.

Smooth off the new waist edge, adding extra paper if needed to ensure a clean finish. Check again that the measurement from the side seam to the Centre Front still measures the original measurement before the alteration was done.

The measurement between the Centre Front line and the neck edge will have grown but that’s ok because this is the wrap section.

FRONT NECK FACING D

Adding a piece of paper at the lower edge of the Front Neck Facing D, extend the facing by the required length. In our example it is 3cm. Double check the new front piece and the front neck facing match in length.

BACK C

Just like we did with the Front, measure the back waist edge before lengthening. Take note of this measurement somewhere on the pattern piece.

Tape paper to the bottom of the Back C pattern piece.

Extend your back pattern piece by the SAME measurement which you did your front pattern piece, we are still using 3cm in our example.

As with the front, check that the newly lengthened waist seam from the side seam to the CB is the same as before you did the alteration. If it is more, you can trim off the excess at the side seam only. Do not alter the CB.

The alteration is now done and the bodice is extended. If you need any help along the way please get in touch with us at hello@theavidseamstress.co.uk or use our handy contact form below.